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Developed on the track and fantastic for the street. This cross member ties the lower control arms in with the chassis for more structural rigidity and support. Especially needed for unibody cars. A time tested improvement incorporated during the Boss 302 Trans-Am days. Gloss black powder coated finish. Includes mounting hardware.
Posted by Unknown on 24th Jan 2021
I would have given this 5 stars except for the fact I had to massage it to fit over my Boss style oil pan. I was under the impression that it would have more oil pan clearance than the stock member. The stock member has more clearance. I have 1965 motor mounts in my car. The cars handling noticeably improved. It is more flat in the corners and does not follow road groves as bad as before. I would recommend but be careful if you have an aftermarket oil pan as it may not clear without slight modifications. Oh, I had to add an extra washer to the big spacer to help pull bar off of oil pan.
Posted by 65’ GT350R tribute on 16th Apr 2020
This is a great upgrade that’s inexpensive and makes a noticeable difference with steering and handling on early model mustangs. Great quality and easy to install. Below are quick instructions for those that I noticed seemed confused by the assortment of spacers.
Thickest two spacers go between lower control arms and crossmember. Thinner spacers go between crossmember and frame. Flat washers go on Nylock nut side. Tighten two top bolts and Nylock nuts evenly. You’re good to go!
Posted by Unknown on 2nd May 2019
I like this crossmember a lot. It unitizes the lower control arms and makes the front end a little more predictable. Installation instructions would be helpful, but not terribly necessary if you're mechanically inclined. Like the pervious poster, I needed the thinner washers between the crossmember and the frame bolt position. The flanged blots seated well and torqued down easily. The other spacers fit well between the crossmember and the connection holes in the bracket for the lower control arms. The holes for the lower control arm mounting bolts did not line up perfectly and required about 1/8" of routing out on the passenger side hole. As with most upgrades of this kind, minor modifications can be expected as no two cars which are that old are likely to be within 1/8" of perfection; especially when trying to unitize this kind of frame geometry. Once everything lined up, the control arm bolts slid in by hand or with a gentle tap with a mallet. Everything torqued up nicely.
Posted by Unknown on 15th Jun 2017
This was a bear for me to install. I'm assuming instructions would have helped out. Washers?! 50+ year old car so I'm not expecting everything to line up perfect. Installed everything loose the first time to put the washers under the heads of the new frame bolts (Like I assume a previous poster did) and noticed a small gap between the frame and cross member. So with effort but not a whole lot of force, I was able to get the washers between the cross member and frame. Called Cobra to Confirm but could not get an answer. Honesty, it looks funny to me but the tapered bolt heads look like they fit better this way. Project car, close but not on the road yet. Will try and get a hold of Cobra again. Old cross member went to scrap when I decided, but did have the $, to buy this one so I had no reference.
Posted by RedRacer77 on 2nd Aug 2016
Great product that I have been using for years on my 65 K Code Race car. Excellent quality and fit. A track proven winner !
Posted by John Saia on 13th Jun 2016
Adds strength and stability to the lower elements of the front suspension. Aids turn-in noticeably. Fit is excellent, as is powder-coat finish. Welds are very well done. Although installation is easy there are no installation instructions included. The location for the two thick washers is NOT obvious...under the tapered bolts (where I suspect) or between the frame and the cross member.
Posted by DanS on 24th May 2016
Easy to install. If your current factory cross member fits fine, then this will work perfectly. Installation hint: Jack up your front frame on both sides. Do not jack up your lower control arms. You do not have to jack your front wheels totally off the ground to get the lower control arm bolt out. Once the bolt starts to back out, put the new bolt in and move it along at the same time. Once the old bolt is out. Then use the other new bolt to push the other new bolt back through. And, repeat on the other side using one of your old bolts. This makes it easier to keep your lower control arm bolt hole aligned.
Posted by Unknown on 6th Oct 2015
Good addition to the stability of the 1966 Mustang front end. No more over steer or "Heavy" front end. The car corners 100% better. Direct replacement of the factory front sway/stabile bar that ties the Lower Control arm into the tight stable front end.
Please write and include step by step install directions. I figured it out, but directions should be included.
